Cinema Style File--Holidays with Katharine Hepburn and Spencer Tracy in 1957's DESK SET

Though it was given a less than festive-sounding name, Walter Lang's Desk Set is one of my favorite holiday films.  It takes place in December 1957 at the fictional Federal Broadcasting Company (FBC), surely only a slight cover for the real National Broadcasting Company (NBC).  Based in the network's New York skyscraper, Desk Set is a lovely fantasy of that midcentury office life where men still dominated the workforce but women were finally bursting into careers of their own.  Feminist icon Katharine Hepburn plays Bunny Watson, the head of FBC's Research Department whose brain blows away all of the men around her.  Spencer Tracy's method engineer Richard Sumner calls her mind and its memory "the major leagues"...after all, she practically rivals the computer his company has created to take on much of her work.  But her mind seems to be either unappreciated or a bit too challenging for most.  For instance, though her beau and boss Mike Cutler (Gig Young) has taken advantage of her at work, he has danced around the advancement of their personal relationship for seven looooooong years.  Let's just say that he ends up recognizing the great mistake too late.

This stylish film is a reminder that the late 1950s were a time when everyone...simply everyone...dressed for work.  It was especially true of the holiday office parties, where women arrived in their best silk shantung cocktail dresses to the delight of the male-dominated legal department. Who hasn't wished that their office could be so stylish?  Of course here we have Oscar winner Charles LeMaire dressing the Desk Set, known for his wardrobe direction in several Marilyn Monroe pictures such as How to Marry a Millionaire and Niagara.  Bunny's Reference Department is cast with Joan Blondell (the bold Peg), Dina Merrill (Grace Kelly-esque as the prim Sylvia), and Sue Randall (the naive Ruthie), and you'll see how appropriate both the colors and cuts of LeMaire's costumes are to the characters.  Ruthie's, for example, tend to have more interesting splashes of color--she even calls and orders a dress with the color "puce"--which indicates her relative youth within the group.  These women are such good friends and a talented team that I always find myself wishing to be one of them.

And as always, this movie gives us an opportunity to watch Hepburn and Tracy verbally sparring...it's what everyone loves about their nine movies together.  It's clear how much the two actors appreciate and admire one another.  There are certain moments that I truly treasure in Desk Set--when he tries to trip up her mental acuity (and fails), when he laughs at her champagne-induced giddiness, and when he finally makes a romantic move on her up in the book stacks at the holiday party.  Their chemistry is so strong that Spencer's delivery of "I bet you write wonderful letters" warms me to the core.  Though they obviously shared a nontraditional relationship offscreen, I love that they recognized something so special in one another and found a way to make the most of their 25+ years.

Katharine and Spencer were arguably the greatest actors of all time, but it's wonderful to see them so delightful in Desk Set having a little holiday fun.  So pop some champagne of your own and join the party...hopefully wearing an outfit inspired by the incredible clothes from the movie.  Merry Christmas!

Working at the Federal Broadcasting Company,
which can be seen as a television network like NBC

The ladies of the Research Department meet the strange Richard Sumner during his first mysterious visit--
(from l-r below) Ruthie (Sue Randall), Peg (Joan Blondell), and Sylvia (Dina Merrill)

Bunny arrives late after a demonstration of IBM's "electronic brain" only to see Sumner in her office

A business lunch on the freezing rooftop patio proves to Sumner

that Bunny is as special as a "rare tropical fish"

Tension brews in the office when Sumner keeps requesting the girls' personnel files from HR...
notice that the ladies are all in shades of gray at this time in character-appropriate styles

Bunny finds out at the last minute that Mike is canceling their weekend plans

to spend time in Miami with the boss after her (uncredited) report helps his career

Bunny and Sumner leave the office together...with Smithers, the building's biggest gossip

Bunny invites him into her warm and dry apartment for dinner

They change into robes...his has to be someone's gift with the monogram of "M.C." Hmmm...

Fried chicken by the fire until a guest arrives in time for coffee...someone with the initials M.C.

Mike Cutler.

Despite a jealous row over the innocent situation--and looking great in her lemon silk pajamas-- 

Bunny still can't help but wonder where she stands

Look at how festive both the office and the girls look--

Dina, for one, is wearing a grape silk shantung fit and flare cocktail dress...to work!

Bunny, wearing a gorgeous red coat and matching gloves,
bustles into the office bringing many things of good cheer

I suspect that's genuine pleasure in Spencer's face watching Kate play drunk

Silver silk shantung shirtdress with belt and delicate pearls and a watch as accessories

as she and Mike share a holiday toast

The office party gets livelier with the arrival of the legal department

and Sumner takes the opportunity to let Bunny know he's been thinking about her

Bad timing as the severe and appropriately-named Miss Warriner (Neva Patterson) comes on Christmas

and scares the girls once again that they may lose their jobs to Sumner's computer

Once EMERAC is installed in the office, it brings even more tension...

but I just love how polished all the girls look

Misunderstanding finally gets cleared when 

another computer wrongly fires everyone in the building

Bunny also begins to understand that Sumner loves her...

and Mike understands he missed his chance and leaves roses for the victor

Cinema Style File--More Classic Helen Rose in 1962's COURTSHIP OF EDDIE'S FATHER

Though mention of Vincente Minnelli's The Courtship of Eddie's Father (1962) was included in my podcast with Turner Classic Movies, unfortunately the discussion on its significance in style was not.  Because the movie really showcases the classic style voice of the great MGM costume designer, Helen Rose, I definitely wanted to take the opportunity to share the wonderful wardrobe with you here on GlamAmor.

The Courtship of Eddie's Father is really a culmination of everything that Helen had played with and practiced at MGM.  First and foremost, the overarching lesson here is definitely COLOR.  In other movies, Helen used it in clever accents such is seen in Mogambo (1953), Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1958), and Butterfield 8 (1960).  But here her entire movie wardrobe is a cavalcade of color...there are shifts, sheaths, and suits in a rainbow array.  What's interesting is the way that Helen used color and even fabrics to really distinguish between the three leading ladies.  Stella Stevens as Dolly Daily, the vibrant yet naive small town girl in the big city, is in outifts of peaches and cream.  Dina Merrill, as the sophisticated style consultant Rita Behrens, is the only lead seen in black and the other shades she wears are strong and most often primary--red, orange, yellow, green, and blue.  Helen also dresses her frequently in fur to reinforce her character as an independent and strong working woman.  And Shirley Jones, who plays the caring nurse neighbor and eventual love interest Elizabeth Marten, remains in shades of virtuous white.

The women in this movie--both stars and extras alike--are the perfect combination of sophisticated and sexy.  Notice that no one wears anything too revealing, yet there is strong sex appeal that comes from the body conscious shapes throughout.  Helen also makes outfits look interesting both coming and going--many have either buttoned-up backs, deep back necklines, or even completely backless.  I am attracted to details like this in my own wardrobe of vintage dresses and collection for GlamAmor.  Not surprisingly, seeing this movie was highly influential on me...the dresses combine bright uplifting color with conservative classic shapes that make them work for the office and beyond.  There aren't too many outfits in this movie that I wouldn't enthusiastically take as my own.

As you will see, the costume design on this shoot was extensive.  There are many wardrobe changes for each of the three leading ladies, and pay close attention to all the extras wearing Helen's fabulous clothes as well.  From the very beginning of the movie, you will see that everyone looks incredible decked out in classic Helen Rose.

Tom's receptionist in a great green wiggle dress

Tom's secretary in a hot pink silk suit

Norman's (Jerry Van Dyke) radio program is popular with the ladies,

who are all in incredible Helen Rose dresses

Our introductions to the leading ladies...first, Elizabeth (Shirley Jones) in her uniform and apron because of baking

Then the delightful Dolly (Stella Stevens) in a flowing white dress a la Marilyn with black patent accessories

And the ever-elegant Rita (Dina Merrill) in matching tweed hat and coat with mink collar, 

an outift that really sets the stage for the rest of her character's exceptional wardrobe

In a classic black and khaki suit for Rita's first date with Tom

In a sleek black sheath with pearls, leather gloves, and fur hat for dinner with Tom and his son

Rita showing one of Helen's "unusual color combinations," 

yellow and orange for a playdate with Tom and Eddie

The evolution of Tom and Rita's dating told in dancing...first friendly dancing in teal silk...

...then definitely dancing closer in an orange silk top and khaki skirt...

...and finally dancing cheek to cheek in--what else?--a red backless gown 

with sequin straps that seem like they're just about to come undone in Tom's hands

Then there's Dolly in peaches and cream meeting Norman for the first time

More peaches and cream for her first date with Norm, but the color is now a more passionate orange

All dressed up in white lace for New Year's Eve (above) and an orange suit for her engagement... 

with Rita in a fabulous feather hat as well

Wedded bliss in a sweet and conservative suit for Dolly

 Rita stands out in leopard at the reception, 

and though she catches the bouquet she has a feeling her relationship with Tom is not to be

Elizabeth is quite the contrast to the other girls...

her wardrobe speaks to a comfort with Tom when she has discussions with him twice in bathrobes

As I mentioned, the bulk of Elizabeth's wardrobe is in innocent shades of white

Yellow belted brocade adds a slight dash of color to her subdued wardrobe

After the New Year's party with Rita and Dolly, 

Tom finds Elizabeth coming home at the same time and ends their evening with a kiss

Tom and Rita ending their relationship in his white tuxedo

and her light blue chiffon cocktail dress reminiscent of the white chiffon in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

Eddie playing matchmaker and telling Elizabeth to answer a phone call...from his father

And they live happily ever after, of course!