Wednesday, August 27, 2014

Cinema Connection--Ali MacGraw and LOVE STORY Style for Fall 2014


I'm far from letting go of summer, but fashion magazines and stores are already showcasing some of the best trends for Fall.  As always, I look to see how classic cinema continues to inspire designers, and some of the strongest style of the upcoming season comes courtesy of the timeless Love Story.  The costume design by Pearl Somner and Alice Manougian Martin was an immediate hit in fashion when the film first premiered in 1970 and it offers ongoing inspiration today.  Designers like Michael Kors, Tommy Hilfiger, and Ralph Lauren regularly reference its style in their classic collections, but Love Story's influence is surprisingly far-reaching.  Brands ranging from Alice & Olivia to ASOS also take note.  Even Kate and Laura Mulleavy of Rodarte--a high fashion line known for its feminine but often edgy style--have cited Love Story as their favorite movie of all time.  

One of the reasons that Love Story is such a touchstone for Fall and Winter is that the movie is mostly set during these colder months and coats are a huge part of its style.  With a backdrop of the Ivy League, the character of poor but brilliant Jenny Cavalleri (Ali MacGraw) wears several classic coats throughout the film--a peacoat, a belted camel coat, and another coat in creamy cashmere.  To change up the looks, Somner and Martin accessorized with different scarves and hats that coordinate with the overall outfit.  Ali's own knit cap made it into the movie and became so popular it was copied endlessly at the time.  Jenny's dresses are simple but stunning, especially the longsleeve red dress she wears to meet the wealthy parents of boyfriend Oliver Barrett (Ryan O'Neal).  And appropriate for the era, Love Story also features several mini skirts in both tweed and plaid.  Plaid skirts have turned into a huge trend for the upcoming season, particularly when paired with tights.  Just as Jenny did to battle the Boston cold.

Most of the clothes I show here are from current collections, but I've also woven in a few from recent years to show that this film is always popular.  Last year, style sites like Into the Gloss and the Zoe Report offered various aspects of inspiration from the movie, including Ali's bare-faced beauty.  Lucky magazine also did an article called "It's Fall, So Let's All Dress Like Ali MacGraw in Love Story."  No matter what your personal style, this seems like something we can all agree on.  Take a look at my own full article on Love Story to see even more from the film, then start your shopping.  When the warmth of summer finally starts to wane, you'll be ready to bundle up in style.


PHOTOS: Love Story inspired shoot for Details magazine in 2010 (above)
and Bernard students in 1970 showing immediate impact of Love Story with their coats and sleek hair




Plaid skirts are huge for Fall 2014 as Saint Laurent (above)
and Kate Spade Saturday both show



Street style shared on Pop Sugar (above)
as well as styling for Bootlovers.com both show evidence of Love Story style



Tommy Hilfiger's Fall 2013 collection showed Love Story inspiration in
 its plaid skirt, knit accessories, and peacoat as well as the collegiate backdrop for its campaign




Peacoats are always classic but enjoying a moment of peak popularity for Fall 2014 
as shown by Saint Laurent (above) and T by Alexander Wang




Burberry (above) is always a perfect choice for a classic coat,
but many more fashion brands are also offering a parade of peacoats for Fall 2014




Camel coats are the center of a Fall 2010 street style shoot (above)
and continued to be on trend for Fall 2013



The camel coat trend continues for Fall 2014 as shown by Michael Kors (above)
and ASOS advertises theirs on model-of-the-moment Cara Delevingne





Cream coats are very popular for Fall 2014...
Scandal costume designer Lyn Paolo puts Olivia Pope (Kerry Washington, above) in Ferragamo
and here's another version from Tahari



More cream coats from Celine (above)
and Max Mara as worn by new spokesmodel Amy Adams





Even the Brits love Love Story style, especially her red dress from the film--
Kate Middleton in Alexander McQueen (above) and Emma Watson in Saloni



This year's The Other Woman shows costume designer Paolo Nieddu 
putting Cameron Diaz in a red dress reminiscent of Love Story



Love Story does have a brief moment of summer style and that, too, is influential...
Michael Kors shows his affection for the film with his Spring 2014 campaign



Monday, August 11, 2014

Rescheduled! You're Invited to Live Webinar on HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM 1940s 8/23


UPDATE:  Due to technical difficulties, today's webinar on the HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM 1940s has now been rescheduled for this upcoming Saturday, August 23rd at 10:30 am PT/1:30 pm ET.  Hope to see you there!

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If you love style in the movies, join me for a live 6-part webinar series to learn all about THE STYLE ESSENTIALS: HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM.  The Style Essentials represent iconic costume design that immediately impacted fashion and continues to influence the industry today.  This is an online version of the HISTORY OF FASHION IN FILM course I teach at Woodbury University and in presentations around Southern California.  There is one webinar per decade from the 1920s to the 1970s. 

Our upcoming online seminar focuses on the style icons of the Golden Age of Hollywood during the 1940s--including RITA HAYWORTH, LAUREN BACALL, VERONICA LAKE, AVA GARDNER, and LANA TURNER.  

You can see other stars from our upcoming decades and discussions in the collage above.  Each presentation includes live video of me discussing the film history, costumes, costume and fashion designers, and fascinating backstories of the stars alongside stills from the movies and images that show the influence on fashion today.  

Cost is $20 per webinar, which also includes sessions of Q&A.  Each one of these live classes takes place one Saturday per month starting at 10:30 am PT.  But if you miss the live classes, fear not.  You can view the video recordings at any time for only $10.  

I will send out reminders here, on Facebook, and Twitter to register before each of the upcoming webinars.  Once you register, you will receive an event reminder in your email inbox and a link for you to be able to enter the class.  

The more the merrier, so share with all your friends.  I look forward to seeing you there!


CLICK HERE TO REGISTER for any one of the webinars--
whether live or recorded  

The 1920s--The Jazz Age

Saturday, June 21st
2 hours

The 1930s--Art Deco Elegance

Saturday, July 19th
2.5 hours

The 1940s--Film Noir Style

Saturday, August 23rd
3 hours

The 1950s--Opposites Attract

Saturday, September 20th
3 hours

The 1960s--Revolution

Saturday, October 18th
2.5 hours

The 1970s--Everybody's All American

Saturday, November 15th
2.5 hours


Image courtesy of Larry Brownstein

Thursday, August 7, 2014

Cinema Style--Helen Rose's Inspired Life as a DESIGNING WOMAN


As I have recently returned from the La Jolla International Fashion Film Festival, thoughts of both modern and classic fashion films have filled my mind.  People have continued to ask me my favorites, which of course include any number of the The Style Essentials.  But though that list may seem long, it certainly does not cover every single fashion film.  A great one to consider watching and adding to that elite list is Vincent Minnelli's 1957 classic Designing Woman.

Designing Woman is an Oscar-winning comedy by screenwriter George Wells and inspired by his good friend MGM head costume designer Helen Rose (below).  As such, one can't properly discuss the film without first discussing the life of this great artist.  Helen lived an exciting life even from an early age and there's no question in my mind that she was a genius.  Her talent came by way of a mother who was a seamstress, and Helen observed her making and modifying all of their clothes with great skill and style.  Helen's love for design was deep and she discovered even in grammar school that she wanted to be a great sketch artist in addition to simply being able to sew.  Thus, when school let out, she leveraged her good grades with her parents in order to start attending the Chicago Academy of Fine Arts.  There the city's Prohibition-era club owners scouted the school for talent, and found Helen's sketches so strong that they earned her employment at some of the best dance shows in town.  Perhaps most intriguing is that this was 1920s Chicago, which meant that the city and its businesses were run by the mob and Al Capone.  These "gentlemen," as Helen called them, became her new bosses and hired her as a costume designer sight unseen in a blind competition.  Little did they know that she was only 16 years old. 



1920s Chicago (above) and
inside one of its infamous nightclubs courtesy of LIFE magazine


In 1929, after years of working in mob-run Chicago, Helen moved to sunny Los Angeles and married her sweet and supportive husband Harry Rose.  Harry was never in the entertainment industry whereas Helen always was. She was constantly surrounded by artistic and often outlandish types while Harry stood quietly by her side; this is what George Wells would later witness and joke about at length in Designing Woman. The universe kept Helen connected with costume design, starting with sketching and sewing period pieces for a costume company off Hollywood Boulevard.  She then had the good fortune to go on to design for Fanchon and Marco, producers of national live stage shows that played in theaters before movie screenings.  These shows were important testing grounds for many talented people who went on to become stars in the movies themselves--Judy Garland, Mae West, Doris Day, and Ginger Rogers are just some of the performers who started with Fanchon and Marco.  Working with the company gave Helen a platform where she continued to get noticed.  An admiring assistant ultimately gave her sketches to the right people at 20th Century Fox, who hired her as a costume designer until she was stolen away by MGM.  MGM head Louis B. Mayer considered Fox such a competitor that he wanted to hurt them by giving Helen an offer she couldn't refuse.  Little did she know that she would be paid to do nothing for many months until the mismanaged costume department finally figured a way to utilize her talent.  Ziegfeld Follies (1943) would be her first screen credit at MGM.


One of the many prologue productions of Fanchon and Marco (above) and
Helen's first movie for MGM Ziegfeld Follies


By the late 1940s, Helen became the head of costume design at MGM--after Irene and Adrian before her--and remained so until 1966.  Though the talented teams at MGM allowed Helen to continue to indulge in glamour, she recognized that the midcentury was bringing about cleaner and more classic lines, and eventually took costume design in her own direction.  The ways she achieved her style were her clever color combinations, luxurious fabrics, and absolute attention to fit.  Working with dancers through the years gave her an incredible education in the functionality of a garment.  Glamour was important, yes, but clothes also had to move well with a woman.  She learned about a garment's "recovery," or how it looks when a woman's motions are completed.  What really set Helen apart from other costume designers is that she applied that knowledge throughout her career on actresses whether they were dancers or not.  She also established something of an everyday elegance that the average woman could aspire to.  These are just some of the reasons she was able to successfully segue into a fashion line of her own in stores once she ended her career as a costume designer for MGM.


Helen's Oscar-winning wardrobes from 
The Bad and the Beautiful (1952, above) and I'll Cry Tomorrow (1955)


Because she was known for always achieving Louis B. Mayer's one standing order to "just make them look beautiful" and treated everyone with great respect, Helen worked wonderfully well with all of her colleagues and clients.  Many of the biggest were also personal friends--Lana TurnerElizabeth TaylorGrace Kelly, and tomorrow's birthday girl Esther Williams were all considered like sisters.  She was so close, in fact, that she frequently designed personal wardrobes and wedding gowns for MGM's actresses offscreen as well.  She famously designed the first wedding gown for Elizabeth in 1950 and the iconic wedding gown for Grace in 1956 as well as countless others.  She did it so well that Zsa Zsa Gabor once said, "A beautiful Helen Rose chiffon dress, a little Dom Perignon, some caviar, and dammit, you're married again!"


Weddings by Helen Rose--
Elizabeth Taylor and Nicky Hilton in 1950 (above) and Grace Kelly in 1956


Grace was so close with Helen that it was she who was originally cast to be the lead in Designing Woman along with her Rear Window co-star Jimmy Stewart.  It was a movie that all three were really looking forward to doing together.  Because of this, it was very difficult for Grace to pull Helen aside at the end of 1955...even with the news that she was newly engaged to be married and about to become the Princess of Monaco.  Of course the reason it was so hard was because the good news also included the bad--that Grace would never act again once she was done with MGM's production of High Society (1956).  It all had a domino effect, too; when Grace withdrew from Designing Woman, so did Jimmy, though this was a decision that he allegedly later regretted.    

Fortunately, another star who was considered like a sister to Helen was Lauren Bacall. The fact that Grace was suddenly dropping out of the project was only good news to Bacall, who was immediately interested in the lead in Designing Woman.  The movie came along when she had not been working for some time;  unfortunately, her husband Humphrey Bogart was very ill, and she had devoted herself entirely and selflessly to his care.  But now she had come to a point where she really needed to take care of herself as well and this meant wanting to work.  She begged producer Dore Schary for the opportunity in Designing Woman...even offering to cut her salary in half to do it.  "I fought for that part; I wanted it badly," she later said. "I did everything."  Of course she would win over Schary and the rest is history.

Despite the challenging time in her life, Designing Woman actually turned out to be one of Lauren's happiest film experiences ever.  It really was perfect for her.  For one, the character of Marilla Brown was spot on.  "Betty" Bacall had started her career in fashion--even discovered by Howard Hawks' wife, Slim, on the cover of Harper's Bazaar before being cast in his To Have and Have Not.  Lauren was a high fashion model and still knew how to show off clothes to their best advantage.  She ultimately was so good in the role that even Grace Kelly was envious, insisting (perhaps half jokingly) that she'd never forgive Lauren for doing what had originally been written for her.  Another reason that Designing Woman was so perfect was that Lauren was surrounded by people on the production who loved her.  The new lead was longtime friend Gregory Peck (Mike Hagen), who she knew when she was still a teenager back in New York.  The friendly but combative nature of their characters also turned out to be a "god send" that offered her an "emotional and physical release to compensate for keeping everything inside at home." Bogart was even able to visit the set multiple times--bringing their children to the Beverly Hills Hotel and sailing their boat the Santana to the marina on those respective shooting days--so it was a relatively happy time for the family as a whole.

Then, of course, is the fact that Designing Woman is based on the life of her good friend Helen Rose with a cavalcade of extraordinary costumes designed by her as well.   You get to see quite a bit of Helen's design process in this film, such as her sketches and stages of her work on models in the showroom.  You also get to experience her range as a designer.  The high fashion gowns in a show for buyers.  Costumes on dancers such as co-star Dolores Gray (Lori Shannon) for a Broadway-type show.  The contrast of clothes worn by Marilla's polished friends against those worn by Mike's.  Extreme outfits like a mink dress worn for a boxing match, which is one of the most expensive costumes ever created for film.  But funny enough, it's her most casual clothes that open the movie and lure you in--a sunny one-piece bathing suit and simple pink blouse and jeans--just like they do for the character of Mike.  In every instance, you are wowed by the beauty of the clothes, the vast talent of Helen Rose, and walk away understanding what made her, in addition to stylish friend Lauren Bacall, such a star.

For a sampling of the design genius of Helen Rose, you can find articles on The Swan, Cat on a Hot Tin Roof, BUtterfield 8, and The Courtship of Eddie's Father and more here on GlamAmor.  



The start of the story of Marilla (Lauren Bacall) and Mike (Gregory Peck)
begins poolside at The Beverly Hills Hotel, which is one of my favorite places in LA...
Bogart even brought their kids by to watch filming


Love seeing Lauren in this sunny yellow bathing suit complete with swim cap



Charming to see the chemistry between these two longtime friends



Many things in the movie speak to Lauren personally as much as Helen--
Bacall and Bogart spent a lot of their lives on a sailboat called the Santana
and all of them even had lunch on it during filming Designing Woman



Transitional moment in the movie when Mike starts to seriously question what Marilla does for a living-
"The first one in a series of wardrobe changes that never failed to amaze me," he says.



Sophisticated navy wiggle dress with matching hat, mink stole, brown leather gloves, and white luggage




Note how the production design from Henry Grace and Edwin B. Willis
offers a pale backdrop for her (and others') colorful outfits


One of my favorite outfits from the film--
red coat and wiggle dress with bateau neckline, v-back, and 3/4 sleeves




Sage green dress with subtle draping for work at her salon...
we get to look at Helen Rose's work on the model in the back as well



What's got to be one of the most expensive outfits in film--
belted mink dress over black broadcloth and taffeta bell-shaped petticoat




What a hostess dress--
volume in the sheer sleeves, volume in a striped lavender skirt, and somehow Helen and Lauren pull it off



A peek at some of Helen's sketch work on the desk


I love Marilla's simple suiting as she faces her over-the-top nemesis Lori Shannon (Dolores Gray)



There are many fashion shows in classic cinema and 
Designing Woman hosts one with designs by Helen Rose


Love how the lining of the coat matches this red strapless gown



Helen's color combinations dazzle me and
I'm in awe of the striped lining of this chartreuse number



Helen was equally good at subtle glamour
as this gown shows well



More stunning gowns in both patterns and solid colors


"Have you ever been to a fashion show? It's sort of a pagan ritual...a ceremonial dance where the faithful
sit around sipping tea and worshiping clothes. There is a sacrifice, too: $1500 for a dress, $350 for a nightie.
So help me...the high priestess of this slaughter was my Marilla," says Mike in seeing his first show.



Marilla--orange with envy--in still dealing with the fact that Lori Shannon was Mike's ex




Both ladies look very prim and proper 
even while fighting for the same man



Subtle glamour for Lauren in a taupe taffeta skirt with chiffon shoulders



A fight at the end between exes and gangsters ends in happily ever after all


SOURCES

Rose, Helen.  Just Make Them Beautiful.  Santa Monica: Dennis Landman, 1976.
Bacall, Lauren. By Myself.  New York: Alfred A. Knopf, 1979.


This article is part of the 
and connected to 

Christian Esquevin's Silver Screen Modes
article on Lust for Life
by director Vincent Minnelli
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