Showing posts with label Steve McQueen. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Steve McQueen. Show all posts

Saturday, October 20, 2012

Cinema Style File--Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw Heat Up in Casual Classics


Though many know my influences for dressing up--hello, costume designers Edith Head, Helen Rose, and Jean Louis, among others--I don't speak nearly as much about those who inspire my casual side.  For that, I turn to the American cinema style of the 1960s and 1970s where many, such as Robert Redford, really modeled the look of California casual cool.  Few did it better than Steve McQueen and Ali MacGraw...a ridiculously hot couple who also were--and still are--style icons in their own right.

Nearly everyone knows the story.  After the success of 1970's Love Story, director Sam Peckinpah hired Ali to do The Getaway with Steve McQueen.  At the time, both stars were married--Ali to Paramount Studios mogul Robert Evans and Steve to longtime love Neile Adams.  But both of the marriages were becoming strained, and the film's remote shooting location in Texas only made that worse.  Much worse.  When Steve met Ali, their intense natural chemistry was explosive.  Their volatile relationship onscreen in The Getaway--one that swung from making love to fighting to making love again--had interesting parallels to their offscreen relationship.  Steve and Ali began an affair that resulted in their own marriage not long after.  As much as the story of their relationship titillates, what's always fascinated me most about both stars is their innate and individual sense of style.  

Steve is the kind of man every woman wants to be with...and every man wants to be.  I don't know anyone who doesn't get positively giddy at the mere mention of Steve McQueen.  There's no question that he was genetically gifted, but his timeless appeal comes from the great authenticity of his style.  As any great style should, it reflected the way he lived his life.  Many know of his near endless struggles growing up, and being so impoverished meant his wardrobe was limited to the most basic of pieces. Steve would credit years spent in the Marines for teaching him to develop a physical and mental discipline that had been lacking in his troubled (to say the least) childhood.  Many garments in his wardrobe show the influence of the military, especially in his coats and jackets.  And later, while he was studying to become an actor, he discovered a passion for auto and motorcycle racing.  He used any winnings to pay the bills, but more importantly he genuinely found what he wanted to do and to be.  "Racing is life," Steve once famously said. "Everything before and after is just waiting."  He was well respected on the racing circuit and treated as a professional.  It was so much a part of his life that much of Steve's style stems from the racing he did more and more and more...even and especially when he became a success.  All the incredible classic cars and motorcycles he collected and then raced became just as synonymous with his style as the garments he wore while doing it.  It all came together and evolved into that masculine minimalism he had down pat...looking just as hot and put together in denim and a t-shirt as he did in Saville Row suiting.  Perhaps more so.  

Ali's style, on the other hand, came from a very different place.  Her background includes a family filled with artists--lightyears away from Steve and his unsettled life hopping from home to home and struggling as an actor.  Not surprisingly, Ali started her career in fashion...first at Harper's Bazaar where she served as a photographer's assistant before becoming assistant to style icon and Editor-in-Chief Diana Vreeland. Apparently, this wasn't the most pleasant experience...she suffered years in a situation that sounds not too distant from the one that made us laugh (and cringe) in The Devil Wears Prada.  As a result, Ali left for Vogue magazine to be a stylist and then model before going into film.  With only her second picture--Love Story--she achieved iconic style status in Elizabeth Haffenden's oft emulated East Coast preppy costumes.  Offscreen, Ali's style has always included many of those classic pieces and is what continues to help her look so ageless.  

But Ali has another side to her...an extremely bohemian look that clearly comes from the artistic side of her upbringing.  It was she who introduced what fashion now calls Boho Chic to the world.  Think flowing dresses, long necklaces and scarves, knit hats and head wraps, and details pinned in her long slightly wavy hair.  Today's fashionistas like Rachel Zoe and Nicole Richie as well as Katie Holmes, Angie Harmon, and Jordana Brewster (and just about every girl in LA) all owe so much of their looks to Ali MacGraw's 1970s style.  Even in the wintery preppy landscape of Love Story, Ali managed to work her own knit cap into the film from her closet.  It ended up being an enormous hit with the public and copied time after time in department stores.

Both stars appeared on major magazine covers for their style--Steve in a tux (circa The Thomas Crown Affair) on the cover of Harper's Bazaar and Ali in her bohemian chic on the cover of Time.  And both stars continue to influence fashion today...I've mentioned some of Ali's above and of course Steve is an ongoing style inspiration for men.  Collections from designers such as Michael Kors and Ralph Lauren regularly refer to McQueen, largely because his style is just as appealing and accessible to the average guy as those who try to be on trend. I put together my favorite inspirational images of the on and offscreen style of this seriously sexy couple below.  As you'll see, it doesn't get much hotter than this.


Though Steve was genetically gifted, he also reportedly worked out 2 hours a day...
discipline he got during his days in the Marines



An early proponent of yoga, Ali was (and still is) also very into physical fitness
and made every swimsuit she wore look incredible



Sam Peckinpah's The Getaway is where it all began




Ray Summers, costume designer for The Getaway
outfitted Ali in earthtone Halston-esque pieces such as belted blouses, jackets, and coats




On the Texas set of The Getaway



Steve could do tuxedos with the best of them--see The Thomas Crown Affair or his cover of Harper's Bazaar (above)--
but less was more for the man who was most comfortable in just a pair of jeans




Steve loved racing cars and had many from Ferraris to Porsches...
here he wears an ivory Harrington jacket (likely from Barracuda) while in his prized Jaguar



Inspired by the military, the flight jacket is a classic piece for men and one Steve wore often



Motorcycles were another passion of Steve's and his included everything from dirt bikes to Triumphs...
here he rides around in his black leather jacket and matching black denim



Nobody did denim on denim better than Steve McQueen



Ali MacGraw style on the cover of Time magazine after 1970's hit Love Story


Like Steve, Ali also stuck to classic basics like crewneck t-shirts 
and sweaters throughout her life



Ali's offscreen style was very bohemian with flowing dresses, necklaces and scarves,
and head and hair adornments



Beginnings of Boho Chic in Hollywood on Ali, Dyan Cannon, and Natalie Wood


For more on Steve's racing style, be sure to check out a favorite men's style blog The Selvage Yard

Tuesday, May 8, 2012

Cinema Style File--Steve McQueen Steals High Style in 1968's THOMAS CROWN AFFAIR


As soon as I saw the schedule for the 2012 TCM Classic Film Festival last Fall, there was one movie I knew for certain I would see and cover for its essential cinema style--1968's The Thomas Crown Affair.   Everything about the production--Norman Jewison's direction, Hal Ashby's editing, Haskell Wexler's cinematography, and Robert Boyle's art direction--is beyond stylish.  But of course it is the costume design that interests me most.  This is a movie I have grown fonder of over the years, especially as I have come to know, appreciate, and respect Men's Style even more.  And one of the reasons for this is the great Steve McQueen.

Steve McQueen appeals to both men and women...in our fantasies, men want to be him and women want to be with him.  Much has to do with his strong sense of style, which arguably hit its peak in 1968.  Released within mere months of one another, The Thomas Crown Affair and Bullitt both exploded in theaters that year and sealed the deal on Steve the style icon.  As Thomas Crown, Steve made anything and everything he wore look good.  For the first time in his career, he worked the more formal side of the fashion spectrum in tuxedos and custom-made three-piece suits.  On the casual side, Jewison drew out Steve's personal style by allowing him to do his own stunts--including playing golf and polo, and driving a dune buggy at breakneck speed along the beach.  These athletic moments and their accompanying style would evolve even further in Bullitt.   

The role of Thomas Crown was a big change for McQueen in more ways than just the costumes.  He was mostly used to playing cowboys, and here he would need to portray someone from an old Boston family who attended Dartmouth and graduated Phi Beta Kappa.  With a real life background closer to Boys Town, you can see Steve reminding himself of his character's intellectual superiority by playing with the Phi Beta Kappa key throughout the film.  Even the seduction in the movie had an intellectual component...loving the cat and mouse challenge of Faye Dunaway's character Vicki Anderson during their courtship and ultimately losing to her in a game of chess.  "Chess and sex," Jewison enthused at the film festival, "and Steve ended up 'exposing his queen.'"  This game was followed by perhaps the most famous of the creatively cut moments in the movie...a passionate kiss that was edited from three full days of filming.  

I knew from the beginning that covering Thomas Crown would be an enormous undertaking.  There's just so much style here.  Costumes are credited to Theadora van Runkle, but she was largely restricted to the women's wardrobe alone.  These are some seriously controversial costumes, too.  Though van Runkle is celebrated for Faye's iconic look in the Style Essential Bonnie and Clyde, many consider her Thomas Crown costumes a "distraction" to the movie.  This is, in fact, the very word that multiple film festival attendees chose to explain why it took them so long to appreciate Steve's style.  I have to say, I felt much the same way.  Faye's costumes are very of the moment...they're on trend for the late 1960s, but seem a bit dated now especially when her accessories are often white tights with white shoes.  But what I've tried to do here is narrow those featured to my favorite looks since there's still a lot to love, whether it's her clothes, hair, or makeup.

Even so, it is really Steve's style that I celebrate here.  Perhaps most significant are the suits--three-piece masterpieces from Saville Row legend Douglas Hayward.  A "working class lad" who found he had talent in a business usually reserved for the upper crust, Hayward wanted to make sure that great style was egalitarian.  Most important, he believed, was that "you've got to make [men] feel good before you can make them look good."  As a result, in addition to outfitting Steve both on and offscreen, he was tailor to the hottest stars of the 1960s--Robert Mitchum, Richard Burton, and James Coburn as well as his close inner circle of friends like Michael Caine, Terrence Stamp, and James Bond himself Roger Moore.  Hayward dressed many over the years, including at least 50 Academy Award winners.  And because he was the gold standard, even great designers--icons like Ralph Lauren--went to him for their suits before creating ones of their own.  Michael Kors and Tom Ford are just two other menswear designers who have taken their lead from Hayward.  Interestingly, Thomas Crown's credit for Steve's "wardrobe consultant" only includes Ron Postal--best known for Don Adams' costumes in the Get Smart television series--without mention of the fact that he was outfitted by a tailoring legend.   

The Thomas Crown Affair is for all the men in my life who think there isn't variety in the way they can dress.  Between Doug Hayward's incredible cut and color choices in suiting and Steve McQueen instinctively choosing classic casual attire, there are an awful lot of lessons to learn from this movie.  There are also incredible classic cars and locations that add to the overall style quotient.  Though there are even more moments of style in the film than the ones I share here, I think I've narrowed it down to the best.  Enjoy.  


How we meet Thomas Crown...
at the office in a blue gray glen plaid three-piece suit, light blue silk shirt, cornflower blue tie, and pocket square



His gorgeous masculine office, which also includes a giant globe along with the other tasteful details



Playing with his Phi Beta Kappa key while orchestrating the robbery



Some of the incredible editing and split screen storytelling at both the beginning and end of the robbery




Following the getaway of the 1967 Ford Country Squire station wagon while
looking through the front window of Thomas' Rolls Royce 



Picking up the cash at the Cambridge cemetery
and looking cool in blue-tinted Persol sunglasses



Driving the Rolls Royce home to his posh pad in Beacon Hill
and seeing the personalized license plate TC 100



Home at last



Celebrating success with a cocktail and a cigar in his living room



Calling to celebrate with dinner at Joseph's with his hot girlfriend as well




Multiple trips to Switzerland to deposit the cash



Looking super smart in another suit while doing a little banking



Back at Logan Airport, Detective Eddy Malone (Paul Burke) and bank insurance agent Jaimie McDonald (Gordon Pincent) 
call in the big guns to solve the bank crime...Vicki Anderson (Faye Dunaway)



I love Faye's entrance and sublime cats eye tortoise shell sunglasses, 
but not necessarily her opening outfit even though it was very of the moment






Golfing at the Belmont Country Club




Vicki's first visit to Eddy and wearing a white skirt suit and eggplant blouse
with a big braided updo






Though Steve looks cool in this yellow glider, it was really flown by its owner Roy McMaster -
he told me he wore Steve's glasses and hat and his hair was even "spray painted blonde"



Supermodel girlfriend in a suede suit and her convertible Cadillac waiting for his landing



This is naturally much of McQueen style - 
Persols, navy windbreaker, khakis, and saddle suede desert boots



Paul Burke looking very stylish for a detective
alongside Faye in a safari-inspired skirt suit (with a polkadot blouse) that was very en vogue



After much investigation, Vicki thinks she's finally found her man


More split screen storytelling for the polo match




Vicki has another stylish vehicle of the movie--the first of only 10 Ferrari 275 GTB/4 NART Spyders,
a model that Steve later bought for himself after falling in love during filming



Sporty Steve looking incredible while playing polo



At an auction, Thomas spies the same Ferrari from the polo match
and looks for the girl inside



 Deep charcoal wool three-piece suit with pale striped shirt, gray silk tie, and pocket square
for the St. James Ballroom on Beacon Hill




Vicki telling Thomas he's her man



Though not crazy about the outfit, I do love Faye's hair and makeup here



Hard for a man to go wrong with black suit and solid red tie (and coordinated pocket square, of course)



Orange is a dominant color for Thomas' casual clothes, such as this big thick bathrobe



Any of Faye's costumes that are too literally late 1960s are not my favorites, such as the nautical suit with white tights and shoes (above)
but I do like others such as her pale pink dress paired with pretty hair and makeup



We see Thomas in suits of glen plaid, charcoal, black, and now brown
as he discusses liquidating his assets in a three-piece with yellow shirting



But for date night with Vicki, Thomas chooses a gray gabardine
with a lilac striped shirt and lavender silk tie



Face off between detective and criminal...
working man and rich man...
and both who want Vicki




Vicki's date night consists of a side button coat with mock neck and bell sleeves
and a backless chiffon cocktail dress with a cameo attached






Let the games begin









During the chess game, Vicki successfully uses tactics to distract Thomas







Checkmate...Vicki wins




Filming lasted three days for this one kiss




Another McQueen moment in the movie...
driving a dune buggy (with license plate TC 300) at breakneck speed on the beach






A gorgeous early morning in Boston with Thomas in a tuxedo



I love how the real McQueen comes out while he's trying to be Thomas reading the Wall Street Journal




 As Thomas shows Vicki her own squeeze and stakeout on him,
the mustard gold accessories--silk tie and pocket square--make this suit sing




Back at the beach...a gorgeous look on Faye with classic white jeans and big blonde hair



Orange once again appears in casual costumes for Steve...this time in shirting





While in the steam room, Vicki tries to convince Thomas to take a deal with police




Vicki's done too good a job in convicting Thomas, so he must figure out a plan


Classic fisherman's sweater, light blue denim, and baseball cap (and cigar) at the beach




Thomas breaks it to Vicki that he's planning another bank robbery




Both blondes look incredible in their fishermen sweaters the night before the second robbery





Staking out the Cambridge cemetery for the new money drop



Love Faye's voluminous ponytail paired with lined eyes and pale lips...
a look that's classic and still popular today





Vicki finds a Western Union delivery boy in the drivers seat of the Rolls rather than Thomas




Checkmate...Thomas wins
Or does he?


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