Grace Kelly's Dress from THE SWAN up for Auction at Christie's

This Friday, June 20th, Christie's will auction off one of Grace Kelly's dresses from The Swan (1956) in London.  It is an exciting occasion. Created by MGM legend Helen Rose, this is an example of influential costume design that also immediately impacted fashion and continues to do so today.  Last year I wrote for Christie's when Elizabeth Taylor's first wedding gown was up for auction (also by Helen Rose); I inspected that magnificent gown in person and witnessed firsthand the level of quality and craftsmanship that came from the team at MGM.  This year Christie's honored me again by asking me to write about The Swan for the article that accompanies Grace's gown in the auction catalog (Lot 50, page 26-7).   That article is reprinted below and I've also included photographs that help illustrate the story of this incredible dress.

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Few names are as equated with style as Grace Kelly.  The Oscar-winning actress was one of the most beautiful women in the world and celebrated for her classic ladylike look.  Her style is so timeless and influential that it continues to inspire everything from museum exhibitions to movies, magazines, books, and, of course, fashion.  Though she had one of the briefest careers in film—starting in 1951 and ending in 1956 when she became the Princess of Monaco—her impact was immediate.  Other stylish stars worked for decades in film; contemporary Audrey Hepburn, for example, had a career of over 30 years.  Grace built a lasting legacy in only five.

The brevity of Grace’s film career means that everything related to it is that much more valuable.  Costumes for her that came from MGM are especially significant as it was her home studio and considered the best of the best.  MGM’s costume design department was legendary—a full-scale garment factory with seven buildings and more than 500,000 costumes in stock.  The 150 skilled artisans who created those costumes were, as Grace put it, “top-flight and...worked to perfection.”  Without question, this perfection and commitment to quality were exemplified by MGM’s head costume designer Helen Rose.

The Swan was filmed in 1955 and, for many reasons, was a very special shoot for both Helen and Grace.  After a few years of being loaned out to other studios—including Paramount for Rear Window (1954) and To Catch a Thief (1955)—The Swan was Grace’s homecoming at MGM.  It was also finally the opportunity for Helen to create a beautiful wardrobe for her friend from top to bottom.  Grace’s early years at MGM consisted largely of rough and rugged costumes, such as those in Green Fire (1954), and gave Helen “little opportunity to design feminine, glamorous outfits.”  In contrast, “The Swan was a designer’s dream” and one of their favorite films working together.

Grace played a princess in The Swan, so Helen approached their project with absolute “gusto” and used the finest fabrics she could find.  Though this costume for auction looks light as a feather, the lined lace dress is substantial with the most sublime construction.  It is also intricately detailed...from the precious pearls in the center of each ‘flower’ of the neckline to the delicate fabric-covered buttons and closures down the back.  Grace “adored everything about the clothes” for The Swan, but especially swooned over the ball gown and this equally “exquisite [and] feminine” day dress.

Though Grace spent much of 1955 filming The Swan on the MGM lot, this was also the time when everything seemed to be happening in her life.  She accepted her Oscar for The Country Girl.  She appeared on the cover of Time magazine with the title “Gentlemen Prefer Ladies.”  She was chosen for multiple “Best Dressed” lists in fashion for her style on and off the screen.   In addition, Women’s Wear Daily (WWD) ran a feature on the “Grace Kelly Look” and discussed how her films were shaping the American ideal.  She seemed to mesmerize popular culture.  “So great has been her impact on the public,” declared the Associated Press at the time,  “she has started a whole new trend in the standard of beauty and...influenced many of this year’s [fashion] collections.”

One film to do so was The Swan.  Set around 1915, the costumes brought about the return of the empire silhouette—a high waistline and straight semi-slim skirt.  All of it perfectly fit Grace’s poised 5’6 ½” figure.  Reports from the set said that she “looked like an angel” in her narrow dresses and soft hairstyles, so MGM began circulating publicity photos for the film.  The most popular picture—Grace and Helen looking at a sketch from The Swan (shown above)—featured her wearing the very dress that’s up for auction now.  As a result, this costume immediately began to inspire designers in 1955 and set trends in fashion.

On a deeper level, The Swan also represents the time when Grace was falling in love. In April 1955, she flew to the Cannes Film Festival and met Prince Rainier Grimaldi.  They began a private correspondence just as she returned to America to begin filming The Swan and their relationship continued throughout it.  Their courtship did not last long—by December, Rainier had proposed.  MGM may have had mixed feelings about losing their star, but they were thrilled with the marketing opportunities they saw from the marriage.  One of their gifts was the wedding gown itself, which was also designed by Helen Rose and has become iconic.  It still wows the world—designer Sarah Burton recently paid homage to it with her wedding gown for Kate Middleton.  Not surprisingly, MGM also perfectly timed the premiere of The Swan—the story of a princess betrothed to a prince—with the wedding of Princess Grace to Prince Rainier in April 1956.

This lovely lace dress from The Swan represents so much that’s special to Grace Kelly.  It is from one of the few films that she did during her meteoric five-year career and one of her masterpieces from MGM.  The great Helen Rose designed the costume with particular inspiration from her star, muse, and friend.   The design for this dress, in particular—with its square neckline, empire waist, and narrow skirt—was beloved by Grace and an immediate hit with the public that still influences both fashion and costume design (think of Gwyneth Paltrow in 1996’s Emma).  In a way, this dress is also a historical document.  Filming for The Swan coincides with much that had to do with her wedding—from meeting Prince Rainier to the proposal to the planning.   And so, we know while wearing this dress, Grace Kelly played a princess in film while actually preparing to become one in life.

Kimberly Truhler

Film and Costume Design Historian
Founder GlamAmor

Reprinted from Christie's POP CULTURE auction catalog (No. 5446)

Screen testing the dress from The Swan

Full length view of the dress up for auction on the set in 1955

and today for auction at Christie's

Playing around on set in the dress with director Charles Vidor and co-star Alec Guiness

 The other beautiful dresses from The Swan all show a similar style to the one up for auction

The Swan has been highly influential in design offscreen and on,

including costume design for Gwyneth Paltrow in 1996's Emma

Around the time of The Swan, Helen Rose also designed Grace Kelly's iconic wedding dress,

which continues to inspire designers such as Sarah Burton and her wedding gown for Kate Middleton

Grace celebrates her birthday on the set of The Swan with cast and crew

Cinema Connection--1940s and 1950s Cinema Style Rules the Red Carpet at 2014 Oscars

Sunday was the 86th annual Academy Awards and there were a record number of people watching this year's show.  Of course there were likely even more enjoying the red carpet beforehand, with coverage coming from television channels all over the world.  As always, I hope the audience was able to see just how much classic cinema acted as inspiration for many of the gowns that graced the presenters, nominees, and soon-to-be winners.

More than those winners, what we largely talk about afterward are the trends that emerged on the red carpet.  Some are strong, some are subtle.  Sometimes it's a silhouette.  Sometimes it's a color--this year, whites, nudes (often with shimmer and sequins), and pale metallics were very popular.  Kate Hudson, Naomi Watts, Cate Blanchett, Julie Delpy, Sally Hawkins, Sarah Paulsen, Jessica Biel, Kristen Bell, and Jennifer Garner all tapped into this trend with their ensembles.  Sometimes red carpet trends simply reflect what's "in" fashion--not a surprise since these gowns generally come from the most recent runways.  In many ways, though, the red carpets of award season become their own runway.  And the bigger the show, the more style seems to revert back to what is frequently referred to as "Old Hollywood glamour." 

"Old Hollywood glamour" does not always mean the same thing.  The Golden Age of Hollywood stretches from the late 1920s to the 1930s, 1940s, 1950s, and much of the 1960s.  Obviously, that encompasses a lot of different style.  When The Artist swept much of the awards at the 2012 Oscars, many gowns had an Art Deco feel a la the 1920s and 1930s.  That also happened to be a strong trend in fashion at the time, which started with the influence of The Artist itself and didn't end until Baz Luhrmann's The Great Gatsby premiered.  Then that same year, at the 2012 Golden Globes, gowns took much of their inspiration from film noir of the 1940s.  Costumes from The Killers, The Postman Always Rings Twice, and Gilda were just some of what influenced the design of dresses on the red carpet. 

This year, the 1940s were popular once again.  There's usually at least one gown that owes something to Rita Hayworth in Gilda (1946) on any red carpet, and this year's Oscar nominee (and past Oscar winner) Sandra Bullock came closest with her Alexander McQueen.  Many of the hair styles, including Sandra's, also played homage to Rita and Veronica Lake with their long loose waves.  The 1950s made a strong style statement, too, with references to that era's icons Grace Kelly, Elizabeth Taylor, and Marilyn Monroe.  This is just the beginning.

What was impressive this year was that there were far fewer dresses that took directly from the costumes of classic cinema, but rather took inspiration from different design elements.  The gown for Lupita Nyong'o, for example, seemed like a combination of Grace Kelly's ice blue chiffon in To Catch a Thief (1955) and Elizabeth Taylor's white chiffon in Cat on a Hot Tin Roof (1958).  The gowns for Kate Hudson and Julie Delpy were very different, but both seemed to make some reference to Marilyn Monroe's gold gown in Gentlemen Prefer Blondes (1953) and even a little nod to Bette Davis in Now, Voyager (1942).  Without question, the gown for Angelina Jolie took its lead from the many illusion gowns of Marlene Dietrich. And the gown for Charlize Theron reminded me of a couple great looks from Ava Gardner, but also made me think of John Singer Sargent's late 19th century painting Madame X (one of my favorites).  Of course there were many more references to classics at the 2014 Oscars, and all show just how much iconic costume design continues to impact the way we dress.  This is only part of our ongoing conversation.  

Cheers!

Charlize Theron in DIOR

Madame X by John Singer Sargent in the late 1800s

and Ava Gardner in the 1940s

The illusion straps on Charlize's Dior made me think of this neckline on

Ava Gardner in Helen Rose for 1954's The Barefoot Contessa

Sandra Bullock in ALEXANDER MCQUEEN

Rita Hayworth in Jean Louis for 1946's Gilda

and her signature side-swept hair

Kate Hudson in VERSACE

and Julie Delpy in JENNY PACKHAM

Marilyn Monroe in Travilla for 1953's Gentlemen Prefer Blondes

and Bette Davis in Orry-Kelly for 1942's Now, Voyager

Lupita Nyong'o in PRADA

Grace Kelly in Edith Head for 1955's To Catch a Thief

and Elizabeth Taylor in Helen Rose in 1958's Cat on a Hot Tin Roof

Angelina Jolie (with Brad Pitt) in ELIE SAAB 

Marlene Dietrich in Irene during 1945 USO tour--same gown also used in 1948's A Foreign Affair--

and in Jean Louis for her 1950s Las Vegas show

Thanks to Getty for red carpet images

Cinema Connection--Timeless 1950s are On Trend for Summer

One of the biggest trends for Summer 2012 is the influence of the 1950s.  Its style has been seen in endless editorials and features for all the magazines recently--W, Vogue, Allure, and Glamour just to name a few.  Another was Harper's Bazaar (shown here), which hired famed photographer Terry Richardson to capture model Miranda Kerr in "Flirty Fifties" inspired fashion.  Not surprisingly, the shoot was styled with two icons of the era in mind--Grace Kelly and Marilyn Monroe.

As fans of GlamAmor know, the 1950s never goes out of fashion.  It's timeless.  Marilyn and Grace both show this through their individual and iconic style.  Marilyn, as we've been discussing throughout the month, was overtly sexy and worked with designers like William Travilla and Jean Louis...men who emphasized every asset through body conscious cuts.  Very voluptous and va va voom dresses.  Grace, on the other hand, was much more subtle in her sex appeal and dressed by designers like Edith Head and Helen Rose...women known for their understated elegance. Very ladylike and refined dresses and separates.  Together these stars show the full spectrum of style in the 1950s and whether onscreen or off, their fashion choices continue to be an inspiration for us all.

So take a look and remind yourself just how inspiring the 1950s can be.

One of the iconic (and Oscar winning) illusion dresses by Orry-Kelly for 1959's Some Like It Hot

and the influence manifest in Oscar de la Renta (at top)

The little black tank dress by Donna Karan echoing the design of one

Marilyn wore for photographer and designer (My Fair Lady) Cecil Beaton in 1956

Elegant suiting by Louis Vuitton influenced by

Grace's engagement suit while visiting family with future husband Prince Albert of Monaco

Easy classic separates from Marc Jacobs hint at 

Grace's iconic style courtesy of Edith Head in 1954's Rear Window

Cinema Connection--Sultry Cats Eye Sunglasses on Trend for Summer

In 1968's The Thomas Crown Affair, Faye Dunaway's entrance is made exceptional with her incredible tortoise shell cats eye sunglasses.  She is stunning and it's really those shades that stand out and make her look like a star.  Though seen in early classic cinema such as 1944's Double Indemnity, the cats eye shape probably reached its peak of popularity in the 1950s and 1960s.  Along with Faye, the style was seen on fashion icons Audrey Hepburn, Grace Kelly, and Marilyn Monroe.  These women--with very different body types--show how surprisingly flattering the cats eye frame can be on a variety of face shapes.  One reason is that the sunglasses range in details from the width of the lenses to how much the frame flares up on the sides.  Personally, I prefer a wider lens and only a slight upturn to the outer frame, which is reflected in the ones I feature here.  

The cats eye look is on trend for Summer and has been in editorials and features for all the magazines lately--Harper's Bazaar, Vogue, Lucky, and Allure (below) among others.  One option is to try the amazing vintage frames available out there--Etsy is always a good place to start.  But of course modern designers are interpreting the look for their lines as well and one to watch is new friend Leisure Society.  Southern California designer Shane Baum used to create all the eyewear for Louis Vuitton and Marc Jacobs before starting his own collection four years ago.  You'll see some of his incredible takes on this timeless classic below.

Fashion houses like Prada, Gucci, and Ralph Lauren have also been offering their own updates.  You can find these brands and their cats eye sunglasses at Sunglass Hut, which makes online shopping fun with free shipping and returns.  Hello Summer!

Grace Kelly in her white cats eye sunglasses in To Catch a Thief  (above)

and the modern update Swanbourne from Leisure Society

Audrey Hepburn in her tortoise shell cats eye sunglasses in Breakfast at Tiffany's (above)

and the modern update Montalivet from Leisure Society

Michelle Williams channeling Marilyn Monroe for Vogue (above, with pic that inspired the styling below)

and the modern update Swanbourne from Leisure Society