Cinema Connection--Fashion's Fascination with the French Chic of BELLE DE JOUR

The Style Essentials on GlamAmor are so called because they are the elite films whose style has always had an impact on fashion.  This was true at the time these films were released as well as an ongoing influence on the industry today.  1967's Belle de Jour is an excellent example of this.  Everything about its onscreen style--from the Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe to the hair and makeup--became popular offscreen as well.  In fact, the style was so eagerly anticipated that Vogue magazine put then new star Catherine Deneuve on their cover in April 1967, a month before the movie's May premiere in France.  As you'll see from all the images below, the excitement has not waned.

Saint Laurent, of course, would create some of the most iconic looks of the late 1960s and 1970s.  Many were inspired by his designs and how muse Deneuve magically embodied his style.  His "school girl" dress is but one example.  At the time, other fashion designers like Mary Quant did their own "school girl" dresses, but it was Yves who somehow made it sophisticated and sexy.  The impact of Belle de Jour was widespread, ranging from high fashion to ready-to-wear to sewing patterns for women who wanted to make their own clothing at home.  This trickle-down effect from costume design to fashion design is shown below and even includes a dress from a pattern book of the late 1960s.  Whether its the dress itself or look of the model, it screams of Belle de Jour style.   

Today the influence is equally extensive.  In fashion, design houses such as Valentino, Calvin Klein, and Carven were inspired by Belle de Jour for Fall 2013.  Some designers, such as Tommy Hilfiger, adore the movie so much that they continue to reference it in collection after collection.  This is especially true of the military-inspired outerwear from the film.  Fashionista Alexa Chung has adopted the "school girl" look as part of her personal style, even including the design in her own capsule collections for Madewell.  In beauty, makeup artist Francois Nars has had a Belle de Jour shade of lipstick for many years in his eponymous line.  He even expanded upon it in 2010 and styled model Amber Valletta to look like Catherine Deneuve for the advertising campaign (shown above).  Modern magazine editors frequently name and style photo shoots after Belle de Jour as well.    

To learn all about this film, make sure to take a look at my recent article and analysis of Belle de Jour.  And of course in sharing its influence here, keep in mind that this is but a small sampling of the ongoing impact of its timeless style.

The influence of Catherine Deneuve in 1967's Belle de Jour goes from clothes to hair and makeup

NARS Summer 2010 campaign took all of its styling for model Amber Valletta from Belle de Jour

Perennially popular Belle de Jour lipstick by NARS (above)

and behind the scenes as Amber Valletta is styled for the 2010 makeup campaign

Belle de Jour style was such a hit that Catherine Deneuve appeared on the cover of Vogue

and the style trickled down from high fashion to ready-to-wear to DIY dress patterns

(Late 1960s Spinnerin Knit Pattern Book courtesy of My Vintage Vogue, below)

Magazine editorials are frequently inspired by Belle de Jour...

here is but one example from Vogue Spain in September 2012

One of the iconic looks from Belle de Jour is Yves Saint Laurent's "school girl" dress 

The YSL "school girl" dress has continued to influence fashion--here it is for Valentino Fall 2013 (above)

and an earlier version by Valentino on Julia Roberts back in April 2012

Evan Rachel Wood in Alexa Chung for Madewell (above)

and Alexa Chung in her now signature school girl style for Elle UK 2010

Another variation of the "school girl" dress from Valentino's Resort 2013 lookbook (above)

and styled for Emma Stone on the red carpet

Russian socialite Dasha Zhukova in a Carven "school girl" frock

and another version from Valentino on their Fall 2013 runway

Perhaps the hugest ongoing influence from Belle de Jour is seen in the military-inspired coats

Tommy Hilfiger frequently shows his love of Belle de Jour style,

such as last year's Fall 2012 collection 

Tough and titilating yet still sophisticated in YSL's double-breasted leather coat with fur trim

Double breasted leather from Burberry Prorsum Fall 2013

One of the naughtier pieces from Belle de Jour is YSL's black vinyl trench coat

Francisco Costa took inspiration from Belle de Jour for his Fall 2013 collection for Calvin Klein

as seen in his vinyl trench in black (above in Allure) and forest green (on Lady Gaga)

Colorful leather trenches and sunglasses on the Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 runway

Cinema Style--Romy Schneider's Sleek Summer Style Courtesy of Courreges in LA PISCINE

Summer is unquestionably my favorite time of the year and I always celebrate on GlamAmor with a little cinema style.  One year I dove into the life of bathing beauty Esther Williams and her impact on swimsuit design and fashion.  Another year I marveled at Marilyn Monroe as she flaunted her fabulous figure in swimwear, which she modeled throughout her career.  And because there's little I love as much as lounging poolside on a sultry summer day, this year I bring you the beachy glamour of Jacques Deray's La Piscine (1969).    

The French-Italian film focuses on four people--one couple (Romy Schneider and Alain Delon) and a father and daughter (Maurice Ronet and Jane Birkin)--who holiday together at a villa along the French Riviera.  The South of France was first put on the map in 1956 with Roger Vadim's classic And God Created Woman, which was set in Saint-Tropez.  It starred a then relatively unknown Brigitte Bardot and turned the siren into a superstar.  As a result, the Cote d'Azur then became the location of choice for other French movies of the late 1950s and 1960s.  Interestingly, these films also showcased costumes created by the finest French fashion designers.  And God Created Woman featured the frisky Brigitte in Pierre Balmain.  In Bonjour Tristesse (1958), Jean Seberg battled Deborah Kerr in Hubert de Givenchy.  Yves Saint Laurent practically launched his career dressing muse Catherine Deneuve in both Belle de Jour (1967) and La Chamade (1968).  And in La Piscine, costumes are by the great Andres Courreges.  

Part of what makes La Piscine so fascinating is that it is a cavalcade of Courreges classics.  As a minimalist, modernist, and often a futurist, he was an important part of 1960s fashion.  He became known for geometric shapes and silhouettes that stood away from the body rather than hugging it.  And the lengths of his dresses went to extremes, whether very long (maxis) or very short (both he and Mary Quant are credited with making the mini).  Courreges was associated with vibrant colors as well, mostly in a primary palette.  Green.  Blue.  Yellow. Red.  You can see examples of this in his clothes for another Cote d'Azur classic Two for the Road (1967).  White may have been his favorite color, though; he started his line in 1961 with a trouser suit and Little White Dress, and you'll see several samples of white in this 1969 film as well.  Swimwear was even a specialty of Courreges, so how apropos for producers to invite him to costume La Piscine.

Three of the film's international lead actors--Austria's Romy Schneider, France's Alain Delon, and England's Jane Birkin--are equally fascinating.  Adding to the intrigue of La Piscine is that the plot onscreen, which includes sexual jealousy, somewhat mirrored that offscreen.  Romy and Alain had been engaged in real life; their relationship lasted from 1958 to 1963, ending when Delon was caught in an affair with Nico (of The Velvet Underground).  But despite their breakup, the former lovers always remained great friends and their chemistry as co-stars is stronger than ever in La Piscine.  All three stars were at their peaks of popularity when the film was released and today are considered icons in the world of fashion.  Though I focus on Romy in this piece, you'll also see some serious Birkin style such as a signature robe trapeze mini dress.  

As I frequently discuss, there are several ways that costume design is interconnected with fashion design.  One way is that many costume designers started and/or ended their careers in fashion.  Another--such as the case of La Piscine--is that sometimes fashion designers would design for film.  Andres Courreges' costuming for these characters is a capsule collection of modern 1960s French style.  That said, one cannot help but see their timelessness as well, and the impact they've made on our American classics.  Fashion designers Michael Kors, Ralph Lauren, Calvin Klein, Tommy Hilfiger, and Jenna Lyons (of J. Crew) are all examples of those who have been influenced by La Piscine.  The swimsuits alone continue to inspire design in companies from Eres to Roxy.  Even Romy's makeup--the bronzed skin, smoky lined eyes, and nude toffee-colored lips--appears all over today's fashion runways and advertising campaigns.  There is a lot to appreciate and it all helps you understand the significance of this incredibly stylish film.

Dive into La Piscine for yourself and see why I am so smitten with Romy's sleek and sensual style.  Happy Summer!

Marianne (Romy Schneider) wears swimsuits of only white or black, such as this halter one-piece

accessorized with a thin tortise-shell headband and bronzed makeup

Romy struts around the pool in a black halter bikini
before the admiring eyes of her former lover Alain Delon

Eventually Marianne is also under the admiring eyes of houseguest and former lover Harry (Maurice Ronet)
as his daughter Penelope (Jane Birkin) looks on

Another stunning suit--absolutely adore the simplicity of this white one-piece
with thin straps and a deep back

In contrast, model-actress Birkin wears a fashion-forward white bikini by Courreges with crochet coverup...

no wonder Delon doesn't know where to look

Marianne ponders her passion for Jean-Paul in this cream colored silk dress
with my favorite--a low back

An example of preppy inspiration from this movie--tucked-in blouse with turned up collar,
navy flat front pants, matching espadrilles, woven tote, and tortise-shell sunglasses

My love for vintage cars is satisfied as well in La Piscine...houseguest Harry drives a Maserati

and a row of other great European cars line up for the big party at Marianne's

Courreges loved to experiment with fabrics and Romy sparkles in her tank dress at the party

This green silk gown (again, backless) is a great example of the boxier cut and bright colors beloved by Courreges...
note how the look has been made more beachy with light blue espadrilles

An updo is paired with diamond earrings and bronzed beach glamour,

a look that is repeated time and time again on today's fashion runways

Jealousy builds among the group and hits its height at their private party

When the drama intensifies, Marianne is dressed in a lot of innocent white...
both Birkin and Schneider in a signature robe trapeze by Courreges

Classic Courreges--the final outfit of the film is a timeless solid white A-line shift dress,
which is styled with highly edited delicate accessories (love the sunglasses, above)

The cast of La Piscine says adieu
from the film's famous pool on the French Riviera