Showing posts with label Milo Anderson. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Milo Anderson. Show all posts

Wednesday, March 30, 2011

The Style Essentials--Joan Crawford Works Hard in 1945's Film Noir MILDRED PIERCE


Once HBO launched its five-part miniseries Mildred Pierce, I knew it was important to bring attention to the original 1945 movie of the same name. Mildred Pierce has actually become one of my favorite films over the years...a Warner Brothers film noir classic.  It's based on the 1941 novel by noir master James M. Cain, who was also responsible for writing the great Double Indemnity and The Postman Always Rings Twice.  Yet there's something deeper in this particular work of his.  The story is set in the midst of the Great Depression and its topics are eerily on point today.  The strain on a family during that extreme economic crisis, a working single mother, an entitled and rebellious teenager, and a woman with an entrepreneurial spirit and vision.  It's for these reasons that HBO thought it was perfect to remaster today.

But nothing can come close to the edge of the original movie.  For one, Michael Curtiz was at the helm as director.  If you don't know the name, you do know his films and one happens to be widely regarded as the best of all time--Casablanca (1942).  What's key is the way that Curtiz allows the story of Mildred Pierce to unfold in pure film noir fashion--we meet Mildred dressed in fur ready to jump off the Malibu Pier, a mystery right from the start and told in flashback complete with main character voiceover.  Now add the look of the film from cinematographer Ernest Haller, who won an Oscar for his color cinematography on Gone with the Wind but bathes Mildred Pierce in rich black and white.

We also have many actors at their peak here and most were nominated for Oscars, including Ann Blyth (Mildred's spoiled daughter, Veda) and the wonderful character actress Eve Arden (Mildred's best friend, Ida).  But it was Joan Crawford who won the Oscar for Best Actress...and what a win it was.  After decades at glamorous MGM, Louis B. Mayer unceremoniously cast her from the studio.  Joan felt as though she had lost everything.  Surprisingly, it was the gritty Warner Brothers studio who picked up her contract and gave her a home.

Mildred Pierce was Joan's one shot to prove herself to them.  She literally had to fight for the role from director Curtiz.  He hated Joan and hated her style, particularly the strong shoulders that were her trademark at MGM.  He even allegedly ripped a sleeve off her dress during one early heated exchange.  Joan, in an attempt to delve into character, had bought a simple housedress from Sears for the audition...one without any such padding.  With the sleeve dangling from the dress, she flashed Curtiz a bare shoulder and said, "I'm afraid they're all mine."  This is exactly the type of challenging life experience that made her empathize so strongly with this character and allowed us to see her best performance.  She was strong yet vulnerable in the role, and she's so good that there are actually moments you may forget you're watching Joan Crawford.

But it is Joan Crawford and part of the pleasure of her pictures is the glamour she will always bring.  Because Mildred moves from poor to professional woman, Warner Brothers' costume designer Milo Anderson provided a slightly more subtle glamour for their leading lady.  Much of the costumes are suits for the career-oriented character, and they are so influential that fashion designers still make ones just like these for working women today.  Over the protests of Curtiz, we can see that Anderson still managed to sneak in those strong shoulders; this was a style that Joan's beloved friend and costume designer Adrian began in order to balance her proportions and create the illusion of height for her petite frame (reported as being anywhere from 5' to 5'4").  That design continued its magic here since Joan always seems 6 feet tall when standing against any of her adversaries. 

What impresses me most, though, are her close ups--the perfect bone structure of her face and the emotion that she's able to bring to her big blue eyes.  See if they don't draw you into all the drama of the 1940s classic Mildred Pierce.



Trouble in the marriage right from the start, 
and husband Bert (Bruce Bennett) moves out to be with another woman



Faced with life as a single mother in the midst of the Depression, Mildred fights to find employment
and boldly asks for a job at a downtown restaurant in a classic trenchcoat



Mildred's eldest daughter, Veda (Ann Blyth), is so spoiled that Mildred works to open her own restaurant 
just to give her daughter the kind of high life she wants



Together with her best friend, Ida (Eve Arden), Mildred's restaurant is a success from the start



Perfectly professional in pin-stripes, white silk blouse, and diamond broach...
even when deciding to dump her gold-digging boyfriend, Monte Beragon (Zachary Scott)



Admiring Mildred's birthday gift to Veda parked outside--a 1940 Buick Special convertible



Polkadots were a very popular pattern of both the 1930s and 1940s
and Mildred's polkadot dress has become a classic



Both ladies wearing black suiting when Mildred discovers Veda is involved in blackmail
and finally sees just how wicked her daughter has become



Ever defiant and devious Veda with her frequent floral flourish



Though doing whatever she can to fight for her family,
Mildred will find she's faced with betrayal on all sides and seems appropriately dressed in black



Publicity shots released led the audience to believe what Mildred would do,
but instead... SPOILER ALERT!



Driving out to Monte's Malibu beachhouse, Mildred finds Veda in her husband's arms




But when Veda finds out that Monte was just using her, too, it is...


Friday, August 27, 2010

The Style Essentials--TO HAVE AND HAVE NOT "The Look" of Lauren Bacall


When I first started GlamAmor years ago, one of the earliest articles I did was on the style of Lauren Bacall.  As sometimes happens with technology, an effort to make a couple changes to the original post unfortunately deleted it entirely.  And so, because she is currently TCM's Star of the Month and I just covered her iconic style in The Big Sleep (1946), it was imperative to right the wrong and delve even further into the evolution of Bacall's sophisticated style and its influence.

As I mentioned recently, she captivated me from an early age.  Film noir was my first glimpse into the wonder of classic cinema and Bacall featured prominently in that with three giants--The Big Sleep, Dark Passage (1947), and Key Largo (1948).  Even when I watched as a child, she really struck me as so different than any of the other actresses of the day.  There was a worldliness about her that I related to--an old soul who seemed like she had "been there, done that" despite being a mere 20-year-old.  She was also stunning, and her smart style choices always seemed much more sensual than anything overtly sexual. 

This style started even before Bacall's first film.  At the ripe old age of 19, 
director Howard Hawks' wife, Slim, saw Lauren modeling on the cover of Harper's Bazaar.  Hawks remembered the serious-looking siren when casting his next picture and she was hired for her first ever film opposite arguably the biggest star of the time, Humphrey Bogart.  1944's To Have and Have Not was to become the stuff of Hollywood legend.


Lauren modeling on the cover of Harper's Bazaar in March 1943 as seen by Hawks' wife, Slim (below), 
who would also influence Bacall's onscreen style with her trademark suiting


Though Bogart was married at the time and much much older than Bacall--nearly 25 years--their chemistry was so strong and connection so real that he couldn't help falling for her.  They were ultimately married and remained happily so until his death many years later.  Incredibly, their falling in love is captured forever on film and right in front of our very eyes in To Have and Have Not.  You can see why she was so adored when you watch the movie.  Street smart yet vulnerable, Bacall seduces the audience just as she seduces Bogart with that famous come-hither look of hers, which was quickly dubbed "The Look."  Interestingly, "The Look" came more as the result of her overcoming nerves during production...keeping her chin down to calm her shaking.  Whatever the reason, the young actress shines in one of the most iconic moments in film history (video below) when she delivers the lines "You know how to whistle, don't you Steve?  You just put your lips together...and blow."

Style-wise, Bacall was always in very good hands at Warner Brothers.  Milo Anderson was the first costume designer she worked with when he was charged with creating the wardrobe for To Have and Have Not.  I consider it one of The Style Essentials because of its two iconic outfits--the fitted checked suit and nearly two-piece black silk gown.



Bacall's suit has many elements that continue to be influential today.  The gingham print, peplum jacket, and pencil skirt are all on trend in fashion right now.  But of course all of these things are timeless as well--you can almost always find a suit similar to this in stores.  And this particular suit also influenced future costume design...watch for the evolution of this suit to the one in her next picture, The Big Sleep.


Note the very on trend peplum in this influential suit



To Have and Have Not's nearly two-piece evening gown has influenced fashion design as well.  Think of gowns like Jennifer Lopez's plunging green Versace years ago...much of its origin resides in this dress.  And midriff-baring outfits are also all the rage right now in fashion.  This black silk gown is one of the first and shows how to do it right.




Bacall's famous seduction scene from To Have and Have Not



The chemistry between Bogart and Bacall was so intense that WB continued to pair them in movies,
 starting with the film noir giant The Big Sleep


Here costume designer Leah Rhodes takes inspiration from Bacall's To Have and Have Not suit
and again from Slim Hawks herself (below)




Bacall's style is never overtly sexual...
case in point, this vested evening gown



Always so polished--look at her equally influential 1940s hairstyle--
and elegant even when jumping from bed in the middle of the night



Bacall was a bona fide actress and many forget how well she did on screen and stage (she won 2 Tonys!) without Bogart by her side.  Some of my favorites include colorful style classics How to Marry a Millionaire (1953) with Marilyn Monroe and Written on the Wind (1957).  And Designing Woman (1957) with Gregory Peck is an absolute favorite of mine for the simple reason that it's a movie inspired by the life of my hero Helen Rose...who does the costume design for the movie as well.  Bacall's wardrobe while playing a fictional version of this great costume designer is a real feast for the eyes.



Everyone knows how crazy I am for a well designed back
and this olive dress includes a subtly sexy surplice back



Simple but elegant navy wiggle dress paired with a mink stole and leather gloves



The film contains a collection of clothes for a fashion show
in addition to the perfect classic style of Helen Rose on Lauren Bacall

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