Monday, September 16, 2013

Cinema Connection--Fashion's Fascination with the French Chic of BELLE DE JOUR

The Style Essentials on GlamAmor are so called because they are the elite films whose style has always had an impact on fashion.  This was true at the time these films were released as well as an ongoing influence on the industry today.  1967's Belle de Jour is an excellent example of this.  Everything about its onscreen style--from the Yves Saint Laurent wardrobe to the hair and makeup--became popular offscreen as well.  In fact, the style was so eagerly anticipated that Vogue magazine put then new star Catherine Deneuve on their cover in April 1967, a month before the movie's May premiere in France.  As you'll see from all the images below, the excitement has not waned.

Saint Laurent, of course, would create some of the most iconic looks of the late 1960s and 1970s.  Many were inspired by his designs and how muse Deneuve magically embodied his style.  His "school girl" dress is but one example.  At the time, other fashion designers like Mary Quant did their own "school girl" dresses, but it was Yves who somehow made it sophisticated and sexy.  The impact of Belle de Jour was widespread, ranging from high fashion to ready-to-wear to sewing patterns for women who wanted to make their own clothing at home.  This trickle-down effect from costume design to fashion design is shown below and even includes a dress from a pattern book of the late 1960s.  Whether its the dress itself or look of the model, it screams of Belle de Jour style.   

Today the influence is equally extensive.  In fashion, design houses such as Valentino, Calvin Klein, and Carven were inspired by Belle de Jour for Fall 2013.  Some designers, such as Tommy Hilfiger, adore the movie so much that they continue to reference it in collection after collection.  This is especially true of the military-inspired outerwear from the film.  Fashionista Alexa Chung has adopted the "school girl" look as part of her personal style, even including the design in her own capsule collections for Madewell.  In beauty, makeup artist Francois Nars has had a Belle de Jour shade of lipstick for many years in his eponymous line.  He even expanded upon it in 2010 and styled model Amber Valletta to look like Catherine Deneuve for the advertising campaign (shown above).  Modern magazine editors frequently name and style photo shoots after Belle de Jour as well.    

To learn all about this film, make sure to take a look at my recent article and analysis of Belle de Jour.  And of course in sharing its influence here, keep in mind that this is but a small sampling of the ongoing impact of its timeless style.

The influence of Catherine Deneuve in 1967's Belle de Jour goes from clothes to hair and makeup

NARS Summer 2010 campaign took all of its styling for model Amber Valletta from Belle de Jour

Perennially popular Belle de Jour lipstick by NARS (above)
and behind the scenes as Amber Valletta is styled for the 2010 makeup campaign

Belle de Jour style was such a hit that Catherine Deneuve appeared on the cover of Vogue
and the style trickled down from high fashion to ready-to-wear to DIY dress patterns
(Late 1960s Spinnerin Knit Pattern Book courtesy of My Vintage Vogue, below)

Magazine editorials are frequently inspired by Belle de Jour...
here is but one example from Vogue Spain in September 2012

One of the iconic looks from Belle de Jour is Yves Saint Laurent's "school girl" dress 

The YSL "school girl" dress has continued to influence fashion--here it is for Valentino Fall 2013 (above)
and an earlier version by Valentino on Julia Roberts back in April 2012

Evan Rachel Wood in Alexa Chung for Madewell (above)
and Alexa Chung in her now signature school girl style for Elle UK 2010

Another variation of the "school girl" dress from Valentino's Resort 2013 lookbook (above)
and styled for Emma Stone on the red carpet

Russian socialite Dasha Zhukova in a Carven "school girl" frock
and another version from Valentino on their Fall 2013 runway

Perhaps the hugest ongoing influence from Belle de Jour is seen in the military-inspired coats

Tommy Hilfiger frequently shows his love of Belle de Jour style,
such as last year's Fall 2012 collection 

Tough and titilating yet still sophisticated in YSL's double-breasted leather coat with fur trim

Double breasted leather from Burberry Prorsum Fall 2013

One of the naughtier pieces from Belle de Jour is YSL's black vinyl trench coat

Francisco Costa took inspiration from Belle de Jour for his Fall 2013 collection for Calvin Klein
as seen in his vinyl trench in black (above in Allure) and forest green (on Lady Gaga)

Colorful leather trenches and sunglasses on the Burberry Prorsum Spring 2013 runway


John Parham said...

Love the latest belle de Jour post. Great!

I must see this again.


Kimberly Truhler said...

Thanks John! I'm so glad you enjoyed it. You will love watching the movie again, especially to admire all the enviable YSL clothes for Catherine. Truly remarkable how this and other films continue to inspire modern style.

The Lady Eve said...

Kimberly, I didn't realize Belle de Jour's fashion impact had been so long lasting. Love Emma Stone in the hot pink school girl dress and Lady Gaga in the forest green vinyl trench coat. More proof that classic style never dies - but it does evolve. Great post!

Kimberly Truhler said...

Thanks Patricia! It's pretty remarkable, isn't it? And like I said, that's just a small sampling of its influence. You're so right..."classic style never dies - but it does evolve." Well put! I'm a fan of many of the modern pieces that have been inspired by Deneuve's chic style.

Marline said...

Holy MOLY! I don't know how I missed this, Kimberly, but it's a wonderful study of YSL's lingering influence. I loved this from top to bottom and OH, how I wish I had those SHOES! Thanks for this...great, great job!! XO, K

Christian Esquevin said...

Great review of the lasting influence of Deneuve as dressed by YSL. I saw the film again recently and it's just as fresh as ever - and perfect in its fashion styling. Bravo.

Kimberly Truhler said...

Thanks Kay! I know you love the 'pilgrim' pumps and thought about you when I was putting both BELLE posts together. All the pieces are just so timeless!

Kimberly Truhler said...

Thanks Christian! Love hearing from you. BELLE has so much to love about it, and it was a lot of fun to just watch it for the wardrobe as I did recently. TCM had a day in August devoted to Deneuve, which included BELLE, and was great that people got an opportunity to enjoy her style. How great that you were also appreciating BELLE DE JOUR recently, too!

Unknown said...

Brilliant vintage outfits. You may also interest in oriental vintage.

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